Copenhagen & the kindness of strangers (day 5-9)
Day 5-9 (17th - 21st Aug)
1,523 miles
Copenhagen to Oslo
Lesson learned - don't write about a day until the day is actually over.
Walking back from the cafe I'd spent the afternoon writing and people watching, my plan was to bus back to the campsite and cook up dinner then think about where to aim for tomorrow. There was a fairly bass-y tune coming from a sidestreet as I approached Radhuspladsen so I took a little detour to see what it was because it was clearly more than a slammed Nova doing the rounds. As I turned the corner I was faced with a full street party beginning to kick off - as part of Pride week a local bar had sponsored a street party, had inflatable toys, beach balls, a stage and DJ pumping out music, and the place was heaving! I got a beer and watched for a bit as a foam canon from an upstairs window started pumping the street with foam, as everyone (500+ people) got involved. Met some really nice folk and went back for another beer only to find no way to pay.
I'd been juggling cards and cash between two wallets (a decoy and a useful one) but hadn't refined the use of them yet, ballsed it up, put my card in my pocket for simplicity then managed to drop it on the floor after taking my phone out. Not the end of the world but potentially a massive PITA if it stays lost or starts to get used. The barmaid seeing my predicament offered for me to have the beer for free anyway which was very kind, but not my biggest issue. Out of obligation more than any realistic expectation, I went looking for it on the floor and the places I'd sat then into a bar nearby to see if it had been handed in. To my massive relief, it had which saved me a lot of potential drama and complication! I went back to the bar and paid for the beer I had been gifted then returned to enjoying the DJ set and dancing along trying to keep my cards where they belong. I congratulated someone behind me on their save of an incoming beachball and got chatting to them, as they mused that I clearly hadn't come to the Pride parade/party intentionally, with my biking bag toting camera and tablet, and obvious appearance of tourism all over me, and that I probably think Copenhagen is always like this! Gabriel and Mille introduced themselves and we stood chatting for a bit before they suggested we go to the main square via a shop for some more drink and did I want to tag along. They are a lovely couple who met travelling years ago and are now married & enjoying life in Copenhagen, without giving too much personal stuff online it was really nice to get to know them in such a short time together, talking about Denmark, relationships, cultures, and the compromises people make to support each other. It made my night to meet and get to know them, and be taken in by their kindness. The main square had thousands of people partying until 23:00 with fireworks from Tivoli Gardens toward the end of the night and we said farewell. I was well lubricated and fairly hungry so stopped to get some food then caught the bus back to camp for 01:00 - quite a different conclusion to the day I had anticipated!
From the late night I wasn't up very promptly for the morning sunshine but got up and nipped to the campsite reception for some pastries. Coming back I said hello to a new neighbour at the tent who had arrived by bicycle yesterday, ended up chatting for half an hour as she described her plan to see Copenhagen by bicycle and did I want to join for the day. With no real timescale or plans of my own it felt like a good chance to get to know someone new and actually see the city. We both went to reception to extend our stays and she reserved the last bicycle for me to hire for the day until I got there. Anne was a fountain of knowledge about Copenhagen and differences between european cultures, The Netherlands, history and many things. We spent the day touring the open spaces of Copenhagen making photographs of various interesting scenes as she had an dSLR and interest in photography too, which made for a really relaxed, interesting and fun day! We navigated the Copenhagen Ironman which had consumed the city and went to Reffen for street food and beers. Reffen has a really chilled atmosphere and views over the water back toward the city which was the perfect place to be as the sun was dropping in the sky. We stayed around the open fires talking to the glass blowing artists we met Bastion and Laerke from the studio there until closing time then went to visit Christiania on our way back. I didn't know much about the freestate, a city within a city, governed by its own laws, but Anne explained some of it and we spoke to the bar owner as we got another drink about the reality of living there. It was established as a freestate for openminded free thinkers, but had become inflicted with drug linked gang wars, and had garnered a few murders until the police came into the city and outlawed drugs (apparently in April 2024) - by the bar keep's account it has made the place much safer but from my feeling of being there, it seemed like the drugs were still present just exhanged behind closed doors and hushed voices rather than openly on the street. There was a darker tone within the walls of the city, we didn't stray beyond the illuminated main street until we were back in Copenhagen.
The next morning we said farewell as Anne was a few days cycle from home and I was heading north - it felt like my experience of Copenhagen was much richer for the two opportunities given to me from people I met by chance.
So a day later than originally intended, I packed up again and thanked the campsite owner for everything, he recommeded the danish coastline up to the ferry for Sweden so that is the route I took. The ferry to Sweden was swift and slick, the sunshine making everything bright as I turned to look back at Denmark - a country I very much enjoyed, and need to return to explore more of again soon.
As I was heading north along the A-roads avoiding the motorways to get the most of the towns and villages of Sweden, I thought about how interesting and lucky I am, that the working language of tourism in this region seems to have become English. The briefing at the start of park run because there 50/50 tourists, English, when a Dutch girl speaks to a German boy in Denmark, they speak English, when a Norweigian speaks to a Dane at the campsite, English, when a couple with different native languages marry and relocate together, their common language is English despite it being neither of their native tongue. I am aware of the ignorance of presuming someone will understand me, but the people I have met have such strong understanding of the language, as one Dane pointed out to me, the moment you falter in their language they know their English is better than your [whatever other language you're trying] so they just switch to English. It's quite humbling, and it's clear how well connected other european countries are with the effort they make to interact with each other, and how much I feel like those in the UK are separated from that 'club' of shared cultural experience. Maybe it's just me.
My plan for today was to travel up to somewhere between Gothenberg and Oslo, but as 18:00 approached and I was still 2 hours south of Gothenberg, taking my time enjoying the views and roads of the coastline, I started to google places that might be viable for a camping spot. I headed to a little village which had a coast road by the sea in a quiet little neighbourhood, and parked at the sign prohibiting bikes and cars from going further. The views from the track were stunning toward the setting sun with the short rocky beach but it's adjacent to gardens and clearly not the right spot to wild camp so I headed back to the bike. A few people were stood looking at it and I wondered if I'd need to apologise and disappear but I just opened with a cheery 'hello' and got into a discussion on the trip, travelling and the bike. I explained I had been looking to find somewhere to stay but can see this place isn't right when I was offered the use of the garden I had stopped beside. John is a biker himself, retired mercedes mechanic and was incredibly kind and generous. I pitched at the bottom of the garden to try and minimise my impact on his view over the sea then cooked dinner on the beach and ate it watching the sun set, before making some photos of the supermoon and heading to bed. The next morning we got to know each other a little better as I saw his bikes, workshop, and we talked about life on the coast in Sweden, as well as the practical aspects of solo bike trips, and had a look at the prep and tools/equipment stowed on the bike. It was a pleasure to meet John, and through him some of his neighbours as I was preparing to depart too.
Further up the coast of Sweden, there are a group of archipelago islands I wanted to meander through, so aimed for Stenungsund and turned left. As John let me know, all the ferrys within Sweden are free to use which allows the communities to remain connected more easily. Riding through the roads of these islands and the land between was stunning, tiny little harbours and farms tucked away between rocky outcrops amongst forest and open farmed fields - cows grazing right up to the waters edge, and everything feeling very open. John explained the tidal range of the region is closer to 40-50cm rather than the meters of range we are familiar with in the UK, and I tasted the sea water and noticed it only had a slightly salty flavour. I guess both of those factors allow a more predictable coastline and the lack of salt doesn't rot machinery as quickly, nor affect the arable land or pastures for livestock.
The roads were so smooth, empty and sweeping, I was torn between playing on them with the bike which is going so well at the moment, and riding slower to take it all in so it ended up being a mix of both. I didn't want to leave the region and end up in Oslo so quickly, and by mid-afternoon started looking through Google again trying to find a dead-end lane I could explore to see if its viable for a quiet camping spot. I headed for a little lane which passed through a retreat and clearly wasn't appropriate as it was also within a nature reserve (somewhere you aren't able to wild camp) so was in the process of turning round and digging into Google again, when someone came over to say hello. After explaining what I was doing I was offered the use of their teepee (with bed!) and to stay for the night if I'd like. Alfred and Bylle welcomed me into their lives for a short stay in Karlingesund, invited me to eat and drink with them and use their space to wait out the weather and catch up on some writing. I met their children Lova and Robbie who were visiting from Switzerland, and learned a little about boat building and various crafts and interests from them all. Their retreat centre homes various courses throughout the year, but this week had a buddist zen coaching course on, which was interesting to have 30-ish people around the place undertaking various forms of meditation and learning. It was an amazing experience and another act of kindness to help me as I travelled north, I hope I get to meet all of these people again and repay some of the kindness back when I can.
I headed off the following afternoon with the return of the sunshine to the border with Norway and ultimately Oslo. Another Scandinavian country down, and many more experiences made richer by the people I met. Before I set off I wondered how solitary this trip would be, setting off alone, but it's been so full with people it's not really felt solo at all yet - I expect that is to come down the line when the landscape becomes more sparse. I found the only campsite within throwing distance of the city and booked in, pitched up then headed into the city with the stripped down bike to catch the last of the evening sun knowing the next few days would be soggy. Anne recommended I visit the Munch museum if I have time so I went down to recce where to leave a bike and have an explore of the city by nightlight and get some food from the street markets. I know I won't spend as much time in Oslo as I did in Copenhagen so I won't get a proper feeling of the place, maybe I need to come back again to give it a fair trial - but in future I will avoid driving around it, there are so many tunnels which direct you miles away from where you want to be, it felt like Leeds when you accidentally get on a motorway and end up in Wakefield rather than the supermarket.
